Chillers, Coolants and Curries to Beat Summer Heat

Ruchira tells us the about sherbets, chutneys and other food items that help us beat the heat. A Different Truths exclusive.

Indian summer is tropical… azure skies flooded with brilliant sunlight, not a speck of cloud to be seen anywhere. Fresh breezy mornings, blistering heat during daylight hours; after sundown the head subsides, but refuses to vanish. Those who live by the sea side are fortunate: a fresh breeze springs up from the undulating waters to wipe away the day’s fatigue. Those residing in the hinterland areas are not so fortunate, for as the night deepens the atmosphere turns close and stifle making normal breathing a tough task!

Being sons of the soil generations of Indians, have come up with innumerable ideas, tips and tricks –harnessing all the natural resources available – to beat the heat.

Beginning simply, lemons grow almost everywhere wildly. Add them to water, and what have we? Nimboo pani (lemonade) with bits of salt and sugar added to it.

Beginning simply, lemons grow almost everywhere wildly. Add them to water, and what have we? Nimboo pani (lemonade) with bits of salt and sugar added to it. The more spicy, sophisticated version of nimboo pani is Shikanji. Add kala namak (rock salt), a sprig or two of pudina (mint), dried and fried cumin powder to enjoy it better.

In the land of “cows,” milk flows in abundance. However, the torrid heat might sabotage your digestive process.  So, churn the milk, ferment it and you have a nourishing beverage the Lassi.  Its cousin is buttermilk aka chhach/ chhass/ neer in different regions of India. Buttermilk is the leftover after cream is churned and butter extracted from it. Their Bengali counterpart the ghol is more thin, watery and invariably incorporates lemon juice. The rich frothy Lassis of Patiala and Amritsar are too well-known.  Freshly pressed juices of fruits are popular and plentiful, however, the wood apple (bael) steals the show. Its pulp mixed with yogurt provides yet another refreshing drink. The adventurous ones may head for a glass ofganne ka ras (sugarcane juice). A real chiller this one is, but for those who are prone to blood sugar it is an absolute no-no. Mention must be made of Aam Panna (roasted green mango pulp blended with spices) another summer delight. I confess my personal weakness for this tangy, spicy drink.

Mint leaves crushed and blended with dhania leaves (parsley/cilantro) with permutations and combinations of onion, garlic ginger lemon juice, salt, etc., form the mainstay of North India’s summer fare.

Enter the chutneys, as numerous as the stars in the sky. Mint leaves crushed and blended with dhanialeaves (parsley/cilantro) with permutations and combinations of onion, garlic ginger lemon juice, salt, etc., form the mainstay of North India’s summer fare. Kachumar (comprising cucumber, onion, tomatoes, chopped green chillis and other spices) is popular in Rajasthan and Gujarat. The Gujjus also swear by the viscous sweet & sour Chhunda made with green/raw mangoes. Combines very well with Dhoklas.

The star attraction of southern India is probably the Rasam, always served alongside the main course. This watery concoction is exceedingly spicy and tangy rolled into one. After consuming it, (mark my words) you are bound to fee chilled and blessed!  Down south you also have the (originally Konkani) drink known as Sol kadi. Its base is the tangy kokum fruit.  Kokum pulp blended with grated coconut and a host of spices produces a drink powerful enough to combat the searing heat conditions.

In Bengal, there is an exciting array of chutneys: the commonest being the sticky tomato chutney tempered with panch foran.

In Bengal, there is an exciting array of chutneys: the commonest being the sticky tomato chutney tempered with panch foran. This can be further embellished with dates, pineapple, aam sattva (aam papad) and topa kool (jujubes/ber). The spices may be varied as per requirement. A variant of the chutney are the Tawwks. They are thin, watery and less spicy. Taste sweet and sour. The basic ingredient of a tawwk may be raw mango, kamrangaa (star fruit) aamda (hog plum) and chaalta (elephant apple). I am reminded of thechaltaar tawwk prepared by my late grandmother. The way she made it I’m sure nobody else could!

One must not forget the green (unripe) coconut. When the day’s heat reaches its zenith, the deliciously cool water tastes nothing short of Ambrosia!

The ubiquitous Curd Rice, staple diet of southerners has spread its tentacles everywhere. It is a no-frills no-fuss dish, a complete meal.

Onward to some cooked dishes. The ubiquitous Curd Rice, staple diet of southerners has spread its tentacles everywhere. It is a no-frills no-fuss dish, a complete meal. On terribly hot days, my daughter must have her portion of curd rice, before going to her clinic.

Ditto for Lemon Rice.  Helps to keep you cool on the hottest of days. Did you know daals (lentils) can function as coolants too? For instance, the Bengali Tawwker Daal (sour pulse) is made by adding lightly sauté d green mango to the daal. The mishmash is tempered with mustard seeds and dried whole red chillis. Another ideal summer dish is the Tetor Daal (bitter pulse) cooked with lauki (bottle gourd) karela(bittergourd) and ginger and very little spices besides. A must have, for those of you who want to detox as well as rejuvenate yourselves.

Include Peper Dalna in your lunch menu on sweltering summer days. A light soupy dish involving raw/green papaya, potatoes and minimal spices, it is easily digestible and very light on the stomach.

Popular in Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nada is Pachadi – a side dish comprising green veggies

Popular in Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nada is Pachadi – a side dish comprising green veggies, like bottle gourd or cucumbers cooked with yoghurt, coconut, ginger and curry leaves and tempered with mustard seeds.

A close relative of Pachadi is the north Indian Raita.

A close relative of Pachadi is the north Indian Raita. Again, a yoghurt-based spicy dish, which one can comfortably consume along with roti, poorie or paratha. For preparing it, you can pick and choose from a medley of fruits and vegetables- onion, tomato, cucumber, bottle gourd, spinach, apple potato pineapple and lots more…

Since summer has already set in, for a change, give the global, branded products a miss and revel in the ethnic varieties of food and drinks to keep the heat at bay; it is bound to be an exhilarating experience!

©Ruchira Adhikari Ghosh

Photos from the Internet