Sarika tells us about the paradoxical enigmas of Banaras, where people wait for death, fearlessly, while life in all its vibrancy makes it the spiritual capital of India. An exclusive for Different Truths.

It was last week of April 2019, my son was on his first school international trip, and it is obvious without us. I was anxious how could he manage without his parents. But again, I realised I should leave him alone so that he will learn to be self-reliant, which is necessary for his future.

During those days, I decided to visit Varanasi. Mrinal was with me. So on a Monday, around 8.30am, we reached to Lal Bahadur Shastri airport, at Varanasi, a city of spirituality.

Vanarasi is older than time. It is like a long-lost poem. Where present is painted in history, where each corner has a story.

Why it is called spirituality? Vanarasi is older than time. It is like a long-lost poem. Where present is painted in history, where each corner has a story. Where you will realise that Nandi – the ox is walking along with you and someone spits a Banaras kaththaa and the young guide, Monoj insisting me to taste one Banarasi paan, otherwise I would miss something in life – so true!

Banaras is a city of ghats. Here every boatman is ready to share history of the ghats and stories of Radha Krishna, Shiva and his Linga. Here you will find harmony, rituals, belief, death woven into the tapestry of life. I met the Ganga many times before too, but here I felt it as amazing, complicated and terrifying, at times.

In Banaras, everywhere there is a god – on the wall, in the streets, on the steps, at the restaurants, some are nameless, some are even formless.

In Banaras, everywhere there is a god – on the wall, in the streets, on the steps, at the restaurants, some are nameless, some are even formless. I have seen many dead bodies peacefully departing towards Manikarnika Ghat and some say, “How lucky she is!” Manikarnika is surrounded with people mourning, blazing and howling fire, chants, the dead, bargains for Chandan wood price, ashes, and the final journey chant of ‘Ram Naam Satya Hain’. Manikarnika never sleeps.

At Dashwamedha Ghat, one of the most attractive ceremonies are held every evening. At dusk, seven priests perform Ganga aarti, in sync with each other, turning to all the four directions. Here you will feel spirituality, alive and vibrant, where incense sticks and dhup spreads its fragrance and bells, conch-shells and people clap in rhythm, chanting Har Har Mahadev, raising both hands skywards, now and then. There is a palpable divine aura, a heavenly ambience, as if the gods have come down on Earth.

I also found potholes, dung and narrow lanes in the holy city, where at every corner, flower sellers and others do brisk business.

I also found potholes, dung and narrow lanes in the holy city, where at every corner, flower sellers and others do brisk business. Our guide mentions, “Banaras bahut change ho gaya hai, jab se Modi ji aye hai” (Banaras changed a lot after Modi’s win in 2014)

Banaras is for not for leisure or any holiday destination. It’s rather crowded, unhygienic, polluted, poverty, on the other hand, it is also poetry, philosophy, and stories of love, where come to attain Moksha, waiting for death fearlessly.

Banaras hosts many religions, Muslims, Hindus, Jews and Buddhists. The city signifies our country’s diversity.

Banaras hosts many religions, Muslims, Hindus, Jews and Buddhists. The city signifies our country’s diversity. Here most of the Hindu people are associated with temples and Muslims are associated with weaving Benarasi saree, which is known for its borders made with zari. I did not miss out in buying my sarees.

Banarasis start their day with deep fried kachori, and desserts like jalabi for breakfast.

Banarasis start their day with deep fried kachori, and desserts like jalabi for breakfast. I really enjoyed Banaras, its ghats, people and noise. The very famous street food, tomato chaat – it’s a mish-mash of potatoes and tomatoes added flavoured with pau bhaji masala. It is tangy-spicy and very soft. Banarasi paan (beetle leaf) is very popular. Bollywood celebrated it in the famous song, “Khaike paan banaras wala”. Here, every twist and turns on the narrow alleys serve lassi, sweets, jalebi and kachori. In the ghats and galis of Banaras, when I smelled temples, flowers, stories of yogis on the ghats, I realised food experience here is legendary.

Many eminent personalities are alumni of Banaras Hindu University. Our first President was also one of the alumnus of BHU. It stands with pride, as it produced many musicians, politicians, writers, film actors, directors, poets. However, I loved BHU campus for hot samosas, which costs only 5 rupees and it is no less than Rs 50, considering its taste. I also witnessed one rabri seller, who claimed that his rabri is the best and if you did not like it, it was free. What a sale tag line!

The boatmen have many stories to share if you have the time to listen. They often sing rustic songs, which really smells like the river-kissed banks.

Boat ride is one of the most common activity in Banaras. Boat ride on Ganga and touching all the ghats is an interesting part. The boatmen have many stories to share if you have the time to listen. They often sing rustic songs, which really smells like the river-kissed banks. Watching sunrise on the banks of Ganga, in the wee hours, is something to cherish and, in the evening, sunset is followed by Ganga arti.

Ganga arti is one of the major attractions in this holy city. If you Goggle ever about Banaras, Ganga arti pictures will pop up on your screen. It is beautifully performed by young priests of the Kashi (ancient name of Banaras/Varanasi), and I was completely lost in its ambience. India is the only country where rivers are worshipped. Many people around the globe visits here just to be a part of Ganga arti. That half an hour, 7 clock to 7.30 pm, it seems all the boats wait standstill.

Ganga flows gently, like a newly wedded shy Indian bride.

Ganga flows gently, like a newly wedded shy Indian bride. The sounds of conch-shells, bells, dominate its 84 ghats. A beautiful evening that would stay with me for many, many years.

Photos by the author