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Guwahati: A City of the Red River and Blue Hills

Ruchira takes a walk down memory lane and tells us about beauteous Guwahati. An exclusive for Different Truths. 

Guwahati, the largest and most prominent city in India’s northeastern region holds an incredibly special place in my heart. For it was here that I was born, one midsummer night, more than fifty years ago.  I still have blurred memories of avenues, parks, and roads lined with areca palm, coconut, and other perennial shady trees; there was profuse greenery all around.  

Glimpses of the misty blue hills encircling the city would fill my childish mind with wonder. Back in the late 60s and early 70s, Guwahati was a sleepy town unlike the sprawling bustling metropolis that it is today. Guwahati (aka Gauhati) has a rich cultural heritage and a resplendent past. Among the ancient and medieval scriptures and sacred texts, it finds a mention as Pragjyotishpura (the city of eastern lights.) 

How many of you know that the contemporary name  Guwahati is derived from the Sanskrit word Guvaka, ( areca nut/supari) while Hati denotes an open-air market? Guwahati enjoys pride of place in the Hindu faith since it houses one of the fifty-two Shaktipeethas (shrines of the shakti mother goddess, creative force) located across the subcontinent.  

Whoever visits the place must make it to the Kamakhya temple situated atop a nearby hill. Those who offer prayers at the shrine invariably have their innate longings or desires fulfilled, so the belief goes. Religious sentiment apart, the view from the hill will surely delight all shutterbugs. 

Whoever visits the place must make it to the Kamakhya temple situated atop a nearby hill. Those who offer prayers at the shrine invariably have their innate longings or desires fulfilled, so the belief goes. Religious sentiment apart, the view from the hill will surely delight all shutterbugs.  

Vashistha Ashram PC: Youtube.com

Going by the ancient texts this city functioned as the capital of the fabled Kamrup /Assam region – the fountainhead of Vajrayana Buddhism and Tantric cults. Some folks also believe it was a hotbed of sorcery and black magic in days of yore. Interestingly there are numerous epic-related sites galore in and around here.  For instance, Vashistha Ashram in the city – a verdant picturesque spot with cascading waterfalls – is believed to be the abode and final resting place of sage B/Vashistha family priest of Raghukula (of Ramayana fame). Pandu a suburban town is named after King Pandu, father of the Pandavas. There exists a shrine dedicated to him.

I recall the many country boat rides with my mother to the tiny, lovely island – on river Brahmaputra – Umananda, which houses the Umanada Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. One can view colourful sunsets from there. Another of our favorite haunts used to be the Ashwaklanta temple located on the riverbank.

I recall the many country boat rides with my mother to the tiny, lovely island – on river Brahmaputra – Umananda, which houses the Umanada Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. One can view colourful sunsets from there. Another of our favorite haunts used to be the Ashwaklanta temple located on the riverbank. Mythology says, once while Lord Krishna was in pursuit of the demon Narakasur, his horse (ashwa) had grown tired (klanta) and had rested at the spot where the temple stands now. 

The shrine contains images of Janardana and Anantashayanam both avatars of Vishnu. Its walls depict marvelous inscriptions. The Assam Zoo sprawled over 130 acres of land is a veritable forest with a vast treasure trove of exotic flora and fauna and is, therefore, a major crowd-puller. You will get to see white tigers, one-horned rhinos, leopards, and lots more. I still carry fond memories of innumerable visits to the zoo in the company of friends and cousins.  For several years, we lived in a house located on the road, bang opposite the solitary stadium and guest house complex in the city during those days. 

Now many new stadiums dot the city’s skyline. My parents would take me along while shopping at big markets e.g., Paltan Bazar, Pan Bazar, and most importantly Fancy Bazar, the poshest market in town.  A gurudwara locally termed as Sikh Mandir stood nearby. We would also occasionally go up to visit the serene Gandhi Mandap memorial located on the Saraniya hill area of Guwahati. This site too offers panoramic views of the city. 

Brahmaputra River PC: Pinterest.com

The crowning glory of this Assamese city is the Brahmaputra, the mightiest river on the subcontinent. It is also hailed as Red River or Lohit. Beholding glorious sunrises and sunsets from the banks of the river were pleasurable indeed. 

The crowning glory of this Assamese city is the Brahmaputra, the mightiest river on the subcontinent. It is also hailed as Red River or Lohit. Beholding glorious sunrises and sunsets from the banks of the river were pleasurable indeed. Equally memorable and delightful were country boat rides on its rippling waters. 

I had left my native city behind, while still a toddler, to relocate to the national capital. Since then, I never got any opportunity to revisit the place. But believe it or not, it is almost every day that I yearn to go back to my beloved hometown.

Visuals by Different Truths and pitures from the internet.

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Ruchira Adhikari Ghosh
Born in Guwahati Assam, Ruchira grew up in Delhi and Punjab. A product of Sacred Heart Convent, Ludhiana, she holds a Master’s degree in English Literature from Punjab University, Chandigarh. Armed with a P.G diploma in journalism in Journalism, she has been a pen-pusher for nearly 25 years. Her chequered career encompasses print, web, as well as television. She has metamorphosed as a feature writer, her forte being women’s issues, food, travel and literature.

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