Shyamola takes us on a scenic journey to Himachal Pradesh, including Shimla, Jibhi, Manali, and Mandi, enjoying local food, cultural experiences, and a relaxed pace, exclusively for Different Truths.
Would you like to travel to Himachal with a friend?
Who can refuse a trip to the mountains? And that too to Himachal Pradesh (HP)which is known for its gentle people, its rolling meadows, and its very comfortable ambiance. The land that is also called Dev Bhoomi or the “abode of Gods”?
The tour operator had plans for us to cover entire HP by road…
We were to fly to Chandigarh from Hyderabad and from there the road trip would begin. The tour operator had plans for us to cover the entire HP by road, but I insisted that we would not do anything more than 5 or 6 hours every day. We would take breaks in all the smaller out-of-the-way places, and do homestays as far as possible.
So, our plan was to drive from Chandigarh to Shimla by car. The tour operators had given us a Maruti Swift with a driver/guide named Manish who was okay to be addressed as Manu. He seemed to be a competent man behind the wheel. Driving in the hills requires a different kind of skill and he had gathered it through many years of doing the same.
I reached Chandigarh on the 3rd of April and stayed overnight at a swanky hotel, which was very close to the airport.
04 April: Our journey begins.
At 10 am we were on the road. National Highway 5 was good at the beginning but very soon after leaving Punjab, the roads began to disintegrate. There were cars parked on the inner sides of the road and there was heavy construction going on. It was dust, dust and more dust in the air and loads of rubble on the road. Thanks to Manu’s deft driving, we survived the bone-jarring drive.
We stopped at Haveli, where we took a loo-break and had a small lunch.
Around 5 in the evening we reached our hotel in Shimla. It was a ramshackle place, under construction…
Around 5 in the evening, we reached our hotel in Shimla. It was a ramshackle place, under construction and we entered the hotel through the kitchen reeking of stale cooking. After a bone-jarring drive, the hotel was not appealing at all. They had one large double bed while we had specifically asked for twin beds. We asked for a mattress which they spread on the floor (without sweeping it)
We were up early to watch the rising sun over the hills –always a pleasant and heart-warming sight.
Our first stop was at the Viceregal Lodge which is now the Institute of Advanced Studies. It also houses the botanical gardens of Shimla.
The palatial building called the Viceregal Lodge was built as a home for Lord Dufferin, Viceroy of India from 1884-88, it was the summer retreat for all the subsequent viceroys and governors-general of India. It occupies Observatory Hill, one of the seven hills that Shimla is built upon.
Henry Irwin designed and built the Lodge. It is important to note that the place had electricity as early as 1888, much before the rest of Shimla. Another fact pointed out by the guide was that there has never been a fire in the 150 years that the building has stood. The Lodge is equipped with a sophisticated firefighting mechanism, which works. Rainwater harvesting was also incorporated into the structure so that the gardens could be looked after.
The gardens are a treat to stroll through with flower beds and trimmed bushes—plenty of spots for photoshoots!
… the Viceregal Lodge is dedicated to scholars and scholarly learning, the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies is housed here.
In keeping with the grace and dignity of the place it is heartwarming to learn that the Viceregal Lodge is dedicated to scholars and scholarly learning, the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies is housed here. There is a hushed air as scholars walk the halls silently across elegant ballrooms where music ensembles must have played genteel music while the silk gowns swished on the polished parquet flooring!
The Ridge is where everyone has to be seen – it used to be a favourite in the days gone by when one got dressed and walked among the genteel crowd to ‘take the air’!
We had to get into a large lift to get to the first level and then get into another lift to get to the market area.
There are hundreds of shops there selling artefacts made by the locals, hand-knitted woollen of all kinds, and of course plenty of clothes. The honeymooners are there, holding hands— the new brides with henna on their hands and dozens of bangles! Schoolgirls on the way to school (or getting home?) Tourists looking in into the shops. It’s a cool walk as there is no vehicular traffic, only walkers.
Beyond the tree line I can see an old church which must have been a very busy place in its heydays. I’m told that it is Christ Church, the second oldest church in North India, after the St Johns Church in Meerut.
Had lunch at a continental restaurant. An old-world hotel set on a hillside with views of the Himalayas, this laid-back hotel is a kilometre from Jakhu Temple and two km from the Shimla train station. It is just opposite the tourism lift that brought us to this level. Their chicken salad was delicious. Clean ambiance and quietly effective service.
After a little rest, we decide to explore the landscape from our hotel area. There are open spaces at different levels. The pines with their young cones make a pretty picture while the verdant landscape spreads out below us.
Our next stop is Jibhi – a dinky little out-of-the-way spot. It is also off the regular tourist tracks. We start at 0730 hrs from Shimla. While we are driving through the hills, we find some snow piled on the inner sides of the mountains. It is dirty and muddy but my inner child squeals with delight! I want to stop and pile it onto my hands!
Manu negotiates through boulders and workers and cars heading for us! It was a nightmare drive but Manu drove well, and I did thank him for that. We stop at a wayside kiosk where a mother and daughter are dishing out piping hot momos with a yummy garlic dip – a worthwhile lunch. On this single-track road, we are contending for space with cows, buffaloes, trucks, and buses.
Seven hours on the road from Shimla, entering Jibhi was a relief! While the traffic went on ahead, we took a quiet lane and entered this sleepy little town with very few people.
At Jibhi, a cute little home stay, was a delightful treat.
At Jibhi, a cute little home stay, was a delightful treat. Wisteria growing out of pots and apple blossoms on the trees, made my day. We found three generations of the owners’ family sitting in the mild sun and enjoying the day. The little rosy cheeked granddaughter was basking in the attention and affection of the elders surrounding her.
The water in the stream running over boulders and pebbles was as clear as crystal. One could sit there for hours and let the gurgling sounds wash over you. I made a short video to carry the sounds and the sights with friends and family back in Hyderabad.
The Himachal National Park and the Jalori Pass were scheduled for the next morning. I was hoping to catch a glimpse of some wild animals, but Manu reassured us that there were none. Some realistic looking figurines of deer, leopards and wild bears are placed at higher levels, above the established pathways. It would be nice for kids to see them on a school outing!
At the diversion for the Jalori pass, is located an ancient temple. While I waited, I caught a kite in flight while she made some dives and elegant sweeps across the clear blue sky. There were a bunch of women running a small cooperative venture, selling some local produce. They were happy to pose for a photograph in their traditional finery!
A resort in Manali has a pleasant façade and an open veranda, which invites you to sit and savour the sight of the distant mountains…
Friday 08 April: Manali here we come. A resort in Manali has a pleasant façade and an open veranda, which invites you to sit and savour the sight of the distant mountains covered in snow. A very pleasant sight indeed. We had a decent lunch in the restaurant. And decided to walk down the road—big mistake! Piles of garbage on both sides and cows and buffaloes foraging there! So, we walked in the opposite direction behind the hotel and walked into an apple orchard— took deep breaths of the fragrant apple blossoms.
Looked into a fruit shop to see if there were some apples available—only last year’s fruit available! If I had to eat apples from the cold storage, I could as well eat them in Hyderabad! Dinner was a pleasant experience as Dilip and his team of two very smart girls and two boys were very courteous and helpful.
In the morning, we visited the Devi Hidimba temple, made famous in many Hindi films. Maharaja Bahadur Singh is said to have constructed this cave temple in 1553. It is shaped like a pagoda and is 24 metres tall.
Who was Hidimba? And why would there be a temple to her in this hill country?
The lesser known of the many women mentioned in the Mahabharata, Hidimba was an asura princess who was married to Bhima of the Pandavas. Their son Ghatotkach was one of the very powerful warriors in the Pandava side.
The legend goes that the demon Hidimba and his sister Hidimbi lived in a forest (probably this one!) The Pandavas stopped in that forest to rest, while Bhima stood on guard. Hidimba relished human flesh and sent Hidimbi to kill the Pandavas and to bring back their flesh. Hidimbi went but she changed her mind on seeing Bhima. She changed into a beautiful woman and asked Bhima to marry her. Later, she told him about her brother’s plans.
Hidimba was furious at his sister and rushed to kill her. Bhima interjected and challenged him to fight him instead. The sleeping Pandavas woke up and offered to help Bhima, but Bhima asked them to watch the duel as spectators. Bhima tore Hidimba into two pieces.
The gigantic deodars of the Dungari forest are spectacular to say the least! Time for lunch.
Manu suggested we try Sidu and Thukpa, local favourites. Thukpa is a Tibetan soup, quite popular in the hills for its heartiness. Sidu turned out to be a large grey looking bun without the regular glazing of buns from a bakery. Filled inside was a delightful vegetable filling. Quite refreshing! Do Give it a try.
09 April The next day was our trip to the Manikaran Gurdwara, about 75 kms away from Manali. A joyful ride into the hills with many Tibetan prayer flags fluttering on every major bridge. The locals believe that the prayers reach the Almighty directly when they are placed on these pathways.
Manikaran is noted for its hot springs, reportedly discovered by Guru Nanak when he came into the hills with two of his followers…
Manikaran is noted for its hot springs, reportedly discovered by Guru Nanak when he came into the hills with two of his followers: Bala and Bhai Mardana. The story goes that the guru had brought atta (wheat flour) with him but had no means of lighting a fire. He concentrated for a while and then asked Bala and Mardana to remove a stone from the banks of the river Beas. Out gushed hot boiling water! Do you cook chappatis in water? The guru rolled out chapatis with his hands and put them into the boiling water and Lo, they sank! Both Bala and Mardana were dismayed—now they had lost the atta also.
A few minutes later the chapatis rose again, fully cooked and puffed up.
The hot water still gushes out in the same way.
The langar at the Gurdwara was simple, nourishing food – open to all. There was kadhi, sabzi, rajma, rice, and roti The chapatis given out are to be treated like prasad and taken with both hands. Those who eat there are to pick up their own plates and wash them out. Hundreds of people eat there every Sunday.
10 April: Mandi, the cultural and spiritual capital of HP; also called Chhota Kashi
The town traces its origins back to 1526 when the ruler of Old Mandi, Raja Ajbar Sen, built the temple of Bhoothnath (Lord Shiva) and the town of Mandi was established as the new capital. The most beautiful part of this temple town is the array of temples in every ghat along the river and in every alleyway. One of the important factors giving this town its unique identity is the synthesis of Vaishnavism and Shaivism. It is compared to Varanasi or Kashi mainly because of the spiritual air of this town, The Shiva temples along the Beas River give the same feel as the temples of Varanasi along the Ganges rives
The town has a quiet sleepy air about it, no noisy people, no shops, serene family restaurants (don’t expect anything fancy!) The people here are simple and smiling, very pleasant. One has to spend time here to get steeped in the belief that there is an all-inclusive higher power. If we have faith, all will be well. A metaphor for their faith is embodied in the saying that their ‘faith is as old as the hills’.
Found a pleasant resilience and a genuine kindness—saw it in the Gurdwara, at the Hidimba temple, in the smiles of the two grandmothers basking in the sun.
We were in a nice new hotel in Mandi, more like a home stay with brand new fixtures.
We were in a nice new hotel in Mandi, more like a home stay with brand new fixtures. The owners were there to greet us. Great hospitality!
11 April: In the morning we head back to Chandigarh as our drive through HP comes to an end. We are doing a different route, and we reach the outskirts of Chandigarh at 3 pm. We are at a dhaba, with large paintings depicting scenes of rural Punjab painted on the walls.
A large signboard proclaiming ‘washrooms’ is truly worth exploring. I have not seen anything like this: a huge hall, with many mirrors and chandeliers and sparkling cubicles, ten of them lined alongside the four walls of the room!
The restaurant served us a great Punjabi meal! We were finally able to savour the famous ‘makki ki roti’ and ‘sarson ka saag’—truly a delight!
Time to say goodbye to our holiday in the hills!
Photos by the author
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