For Different Truths, Ruchira examines India’s evolving summer traditions: from woven mats and rural retreats to seasonal delights and modern AC.
This year summer has arrived in the northern parts of the country a bit late. However, that has brought tremendous relief to the inhabitants of these regions
Summer can’t be conceived with iconic objects such as maadur (mat made of ‘korai’ grass) and paati (woven with fibre culled from the ‘murta’ plant). Now they are not so commonplace in urban homes but they still enjoy pride of place in rural Households. Spread them on a clean floor in a room away from direct sunlight, grab a pillow and lie supine; If you have a companion, hold a murmuring conversation … until slumber overpowers you. This can be sheer bliss!
Let me narrate an incident which demonstrates how nature’s ways are far superior to manmade ones. One summer, many moons ago, we were on a visit to Haripal (my late Nani’ s maiden home) in Hooghly district of WB. The house was ‘hut’ like with a thatched straw roof set amidst open fields. There was no electricity but it was deliciously cool within. We were lounging in one of the bedrooms when of the aunts threw open the windows overlooking the fields; fortunately, it was cloudy, so we escaped the sun’s rays…the draught of fresh air that rushed in delighted us no end. This tempted me to catch forty winks while others kept the conversation going.
The boons that this noisome season has to offer are yes luscious mangoes of diverse varieties shapes and sizes (not forgetting the fancy prices of some) and litchies. On the gastronomic front, the season is brightened up by tangy raw mangoes (aka kairi,) and herbs such as pudhina (mint) and dhania(parsley); make them into drinks, chutneys etc and you are well equipped to beat the heat. Raw mango finds its way into pulses and lentils, especially in the eastern parts of the country
Mango is king of fruits, but jackfruit grabs second place and is a hot favourite in the areas where it grows in natural abundance. I don’t fancy it too much since it is too sweet for my liking.
Curd and its ancillary products hold sway during the grueling summer months. I don’t relish the so-called gondhoraj lebu ghol so popular in my community. Nor Lassi for that matter. I would rather drink chhach/ chhas/butter milk to rejuvenate the corpus.
During blistering summer ice cream, aerated drinks and kulfi wallahs have a field day. Possibly the bulk of their yearly income piles up during this season. I enjoy the popsicles in myriad flavours though I treat myself en famile to the more sophisticated and pricey ones occasionally.
The summer lifestyle of Indians has undergone a paradigm shift. Even in villages and suburbs ACs are becoming prominent. I am not aware of other metros but schools in Delhi NCR are offering air-conditioned learning experiences. For an astronomical price of course.
Air conditioners have moved up to the next level, portable /personal ACs have made their debut. I dream of buying one if my pocket permits.
My nightmares during summer are jamun (Java plum) and bael (wood apple). Packed with vitamins and minerals the duo depresses me by way of -taste.
Talking of some more useful beverages, I suggest green coconut (daab). If you can overlook its tartar-like taste the water and other contents will soothe your body, mind and heart.
And yes, the ubiquitous Rooh Afza is another option for you to uplift your spirits. It has been ‘wildly’ popular ever since its ‘invention’ so many decades ago!
Picture design by Anumita Roy